Title logo
   
Home

2017 Plant List

Search

Order Plants

Inspiration!

The Collection: A-Z

2017 Show Calendar

Visit the nursery

Gift Vouchers

Newsletters

About us

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I look after my hostas?
Hostas are hardy perennial woodland plants that love shady, moist conditions so:

    • give them plenty of shelter: preferably from trees but walls and fences can to the job too

    • don't let them dry out BUT don't let them become water-logged: stand pots in a dish or tray and water from there. This allows the plant to take all it needs and takes the guess work out of watering.

There are a handful of cultivars that can withstand full sun but we recommend you provide good levels of shade for the very best colour.
Cultivars with white in the leaf are especially prone to scorching and can be damaged by drying warm winds as well as direct sunlight. Scorching reduces the white areas on a leaf to a papery, dry consistency so you will be able to see the damage at an early stage. If your plant does exhibit damage then try to provide more shelter for it.

Hostas are also prone to weather damage if exposed to heavy winds and rain so planting in a well sheltered spot will help protect against this. Over winter, we suggest you leave your pots on their side to avoid waterlogging and then freezing as this can damage the root system of your plants (and your lovely pots).

If you are collecting miniature hostas then we recommend you pop them into containers for the first few years until they have established themselves sufficiently to compete with the other plants in your garden.

People often ask about difficult growing conditions they experience in their gardens and we have distilled a range of these, with suggestions as to how to deal with them on our inspiration page.

What should I feed water my hosta and how much water does it need?

Multipurpose compost/feed warning
If you use feeds designed for annuals on your hostas they will become stressed, look weak and probably die back completely in the autumn never to return.
Food additives in multipurpose composts are often too aggressive for hostas, especially if the plants dry out a little as this can intensify the nutrient levels.

As woodland plants hostas gain their nutrients through the continual decomposition of rotting leaf litter. Therefore, they do not require very much in the way
of food. If your hostas live in pots then give them a couple of feeds of half-strength tomato food during the year, but no more. All our sales plants, and the majority of our parent plants, are grown in pots and we apply a seaweed feed in the spring as the only feed for the year.

If your hostas are planted in the garden then the application of well rotted manure or garden compost, when the plants enter dormancy in the autumn, will serve them well during the winter. Top dressing with the same in the spring, together with an application of slug pellets will give the plants an extra boost during emergence whilst combatting early damage by the slugs emerging from hibernation at the same time. An early top dressing can also help protect the emerging shoots from late frosts.

Every gardener knows the importance that water plays in the growth of their plants, it is vital for the plant to survive. What is sometimes not appreciated is the amount of water a plant requires, not just to survive but to flourish.
Watering Systems for Your Plants
With the very busy lives that people have today watering the plants on a regular basis can be very difficult, the addition of an irrigation system in your garden, which has a timer attached to the tap to switch it on and off will save you time and water and give your plants the opportunity to flourish to their full potential.

Installing a garden watering system is quick and easy and can be laid out in such a way as to make it virtually unnoticeable. To find the most suitable watering system for your garden visit www.watermateirrigation.co.uk their friendly experts will be pleased to help design a specific watering system for you.
Mr Watermate

For products and ideas for plant and garden accessories, why not visit the Horticultural Exhibitors' Association website for accredited suppliers of all manner of garden sundries - click on
HEA Specialisms
We have all experienced the rush to get the hose pipe out when we get home from work because the healthy plants we lovingly planted on the weekend have wilted during an unexpected sunny Monday. The stress on the plants at this point has already caused some damage and will affect the plants full potential to grow and flower or fruit.

Plants grown in pots and containers or greenhouses will dry out more quickly than those in the borders, so now the frequency of watering becomes very important. These plants should be watered at least twice each day and in very hot weather more frequently.

We advocate the use of shallow dishes or trays of water in which to stand your containers. Keeping the trays topped up with water helps take the guesswork out of how much water to use, and is a natural barrier to slugs and snails.

Can I split my hosta?
Yes, but we recommend you wait until the spring and see how your hosta looks as it emerges. If the new shoots are looking a bit crowded together then that is a sign the plant could do with splitting. If your plant is pot-bound then it may throw up premature flower spikes rather than produce leaves - this is a sign that the plant is stressed as it is trying to reproduce too early in the year.

Dividing hostas is easy - details of how to do this can be found in our May 2007 newsletter and our December 2009 newsletter

What is your secret weapon against slugs and snails?
First, determine what has damaged your plant:

Is it slugs or is it snails?
    • Slug damage is indicated by holes in the leaves on emergence. The slugs that do the damage emerge from hibernation at the same time as your hostas and the only things on their minds is food and reproduction. They are best targetted early.

      In the past we have used Nemaslug to great effect. Indeed it gave us two seasons of control in one application. It is a common misconception that control only lasts for the six week life cycle of the nematode, since during this time the creature produces and itís progeny take over the task, if there are enough slugs left for them. We also noticed that the nematode worked against young snails.
      However, the nematode is temperature dependent. Prolonged drought or cold spells will make it necessary to re-apply.


    • Snail damage shows as large lace-effect gashes in the leaves throughout the season. Snails are the most damaging of hosta pests aside from vine weevil and you will need to spot treat regularly throughout the growing season to combat this pest effectively.

      We have devoted a couple of newsletters to this subject:

Our approach
We use slug pellets, simply because we cannot sell our plants with holes in the leaves. It is really important that you follow the manufacturer's guidelines when using slug pellets and we suggest the following hints to using them:

  • Start using your chemical (metaldehyde-based) or organic (iron phosphate-based, such as Ferramol) pellets early on in the year, when the first warm weather hits.
    The secret is using the product correctly...

    • Use your pellets wisely, don't scatter widely and wantonly, remember slugs and snails hunt by smell so you risk attracting more of a problem than you need to solve.
    • Keep your pellets dry by putting a teaspoonful of pellets in a jar (on its side) hidden among the foliage. This keeps the pellets effective for longer and any slugs in the vicinity will snack on the them in preference to your plants.

Using nematodes to combat the slugs, and pellets to combat the snails, leaves us with a little time to combat vine weevil, which is altogether a more tricky pest to deal with:

  • Vine Weevil damage shows as notches nipped out along the leaf edges. This is done by the adult weevil, which feeds at night and does not fly. Itís larvae feast on plant roots to devastating effect. The larvae are white, about ĹĒ long, with brown heads.We have found that they are most likely to cause damage in potted plants, probably because they like the friable soil. To combat this we always add 20% sharp sand to our potting mix. We also take the precaution of re-potting plants we buy straight away, in case we have imported any pests.
    NOTE: Vine weevil need air to breathe, so submerging any plant found to have an infestation in a bucket of water for around 10 minutes will bring them to the surface, ensuring you have found all the potential nibblers.

Nemaslug also produce a nematode solution for Vine Weevil - find out more here

Plant/leaf damage

  • Weather-related
    Hostas can suffer weather-related damage to the leaves, just like any other plant. Hail, very cold rain and frost can cause very localised damage to the cells, which then develop what looks like rust spots. Wind and sun can scorch leaves, bleaching their colour and turning then papery in consistency. Most of the images we are sent of leaf damage can be explained as weather-related.
  • Viruses
    There are some plant viruses that can affect hostas and over recent years hosta virus X, or HVX, has become more prevalent. The American Hosta Society is funding research into this particular virus to understand what causes it, and to determine how best to deal with it. AHS policy is to destroy any suspect plants and to notify the nursery who supplied it. The nursery can then screen their stocks of the variety, if they don't already do so.
    Find out more about the virus and AHS funded research.

    Interestingly, it does seem that this virus can lay dormant for quite a few years before showing any sign of infection, rather like many other viruses that affect plants, and humans come to that. Indeed, we have seen some very mature plants, which have obviously been cultivated for a number of years, show signs of the virus. It is conceivable that the symptoms could be triggered by climate changes or severe weather conditions.
    We rather feel this has become more of a problem over recent decades due to the proliferation of new introductions that have not been properly screened before entering the tissue culture process. So far research suggests that the virus can survive this process, which obviously increases the potential of occurrance considerably.

Read more about HVX from the links to the AHS website shown above, and we devoted a newsletter to the subject in November 2008

Ordering from us
Ordering from us is easy, simply call us on 01449 711576, or email us, with your order.

We have an ever-growing list of highly satisfied customers who have successfully ordered plants from us and love to tell us of their joy at receiving such beautiful plants in this way. We could list a whole bunch of bouquets but feel you should experience our mail order for yourselves. Why not give it a go?
More information about ordering from us

To give them the best start plant in a well prepared humus rich soil that is sufficiently friable to ensure good contact with the roots. Make sure they do not dry out whilst establishing themselves, but do not over water. Removing flowering shoots for the first season will encourage plants to concentrate their energies on producing more crowns and strong roots.
If planting out when frost may be a problem, protect with mulch. This is also recommended for the early emerging cultivars, e.g. H. montana Aureomarginata and plants from the Tardiana group.

Last updated: 20/8/2017