Frequently Asked Questions
Why can't I buy plants through this website?
This website was created in 2011 to support customers who have bought plants from us already. It was designed to be an information resource in the true spirit of the Internet, rather than a means by which to encourage you to spend.
We have toyed with the idea of a web shop but we wouldn't be able to offer the very special/limited quantity cultivars this way and, as we operate across multiple selling channels during the season. We would hate to disappoint anyone by saying we have something for sale when we might have sold the last one at the nursery before we were able to update the shop.
The main reason for not operating an online shop is the fact that so many customers prefer to get advice at the same time as they make their purchasing decisions. This is far easier to do via the phone or email.
We do all we can to ensure we give all our customers the attention they deserve, whether they are contacting us remotely, visiting the nursery or attending a show. Maintaining an online shop is a complication we do not currently have time for.
Finally, we are also very wary of online fraud so by speaking to our customers directly, we can avoid any risk of personal details being hacked via a service we have no control over.
How can I view my selected plants in one place when choosing?
We do not have the facility to create a 'wish list' or basket on this website but there are ways you can create a list of your own in another window, which in many ways is much better than using a wish list that would disappear.
Open up a new document in a software package you are comfortable with using such as Word or Powerpoint. Copy images into that document and annotate as you would in a notebook. 'Right clicking' your mouse button on the selected image should give you a drop down list of options, including 'copy' or you can press 'Control' and 'C' together on your keyboard as a shortcut. Click in your document where you want the image placed either 'right click' your mouse for the drop down menu of options or on your keyboard press 'Control' and 'V' to paste.
Doing this gives you a very useful record of what you have selected/bought and can save lots of effort in the future trying to identify plants you have bought. It is also a very useful aide memoir for what you already have in your garden, helping you when out and about buying plants.
How do I look after my hostas?
Hostas are hardy perennial woodland plants that
love shady, moist conditions so:
- give them plenty of shelter: preferably from trees
but walls and fences can to the job too
- don't let them dry out BUT don't let them become
water-logged: stand pots in a dish or tray and water from there.
This allows the plant to take all it needs and takes the guess work
out of watering.
- take a look at the cultivation special newsletter - October 2020
There are a handful of cultivars that can withstand full
sun but we recommend you provide good levels of shade for the very best
Cultivars with white in the leaf are especially prone
to scorching and can be damaged by drying warm winds as well as direct
sunlight. Scorching reduces the white areas on a leaf to a papery, dry
consistency so you will be able to see the damage at an early stage.
If your plant does exhibit damage then try to provide more shelter for
Hostas are also prone to weather damage if exposed to
heavy winds and rain so planting in a well sheltered spot will help
protect against this. Over winter, we suggest you leave your pots on
their side to avoid waterlogging and then freezing as this can damage
the root system of your plants (and your lovely pots).
If you are collecting miniature hostas then we recommend
you pop them into containers for the first few years until they have
established themselves sufficiently to compete with the other plants
in your garden.
People often ask about difficult growing conditions they experience in their gardens and we have distilled a range of these, with suggestions as to how to deal with them on our inspiration page.
What should I feed water my hosta
and how much water does it need?
If you use feeds designed for annuals on your hostas they will
become stressed, look weak and probably die back completely in
the autumn never to return.
Food additives in multipurpose composts are often too aggressive
for hostas, especially if the plants dry out a little as this
can intensify the nutrient levels.
As woodland plants hostas gain their nutrients
through the continual decomposition of rotting leaf litter. Therefore,
they do not require very much in the way
of food. If your hostas live in pots then give them a couple of feeds
of half-strength tomato food during the year, but no more. All our sales
plants, and the majority of our parent plants, are grown in pots and
we apply a seaweed feed in the spring as the only feed for the year.
If your hostas are planted in the garden then the
application of well rotted manure or garden compost, when the plants
enter dormancy in the autumn, will serve them well during the winter.
Top dressing with the same in the spring, together with an application
of slug pellets will give the plants an extra boost during emergence
whilst combatting early damage by the slugs emerging from hibernation
at the same time. An early top dressing can also help protect the emerging
shoots from late frosts.
Our soil mix
As we have hinted, hosta are woodland plants and therefore a soil mix that mimics those conditions is ideal. However, hosta are not fussy and can grow in very poor soil. We use a mix of products from Melcourt and Dalefoot, opening it up with the addition of sand and a little fine composted bark.
We use a gentle, slow release feed
to mimic the nutrients offered up by nature.
Every gardener knows the importance that water plays
in the growth of their plants, it is vital for the plant to survive.
What is sometimes not appreciated is the amount of water a plant requires,
not just to survive but to flourish.
We have all experienced the rush to get the hose
pipe out when we get home from work because the healthy plants we lovingly
planted on the weekend have wilted during an unexpected sunny Monday.
The stress on the plants at this point has already caused some damage
and will affect the plants full potential to grow and flower or fruit.
Plants grown in pots and containers or greenhouses will dry out more
quickly than those in the borders, so now the frequency of watering
becomes very important. These plants should be watered at least twice
each day and in very hot weather more frequently. Try to avoid watering into the centre of the hosta as this risks crown rot.
We advocate the use of shallow dishes or trays of water in which to
stand your containers. Keeping the trays topped up with water helps
take the guesswork out of how much water to use, and is a natural barrier
to slugs and snails.
Water round ground grown hosta
infrequently but well, an intermittent soaking does more good that too frequent shallow watering. This only encourages the plant to shallow root and will be less able to withstand prolonged dry periods.
Can I split my hosta?
Yes, but we recommend you wait until the spring
and see how your hosta looks as it emerges. If the new shoots are looking
a bit crowded together then that is a sign the plant could do with splitting.
If your plant is pot-bound then it may throw up premature flower spikes
rather than produce leaves - this is a sign that the plant is stressed
as it is trying to reproduce too early in the year.
Dividing hostas is easy - details of how to do this can
be found in our May
2007 newsletter and our December
What is your secret weapon
against slugs and snails?
Is it slugs or is it snails?
Before we start, please exercise some perspective on the subject of pest control. We do not advocate the wanton scattering of slug pellets as we have hedgehogs, frogs and birds in great numbers around the nursery. Judicious use of pest control measures tend to be much more effective in our experience and we are happy the methods we use ensure the chemicals do not enter the food chain.
First, determine what has damaged your plant:
- Slug damage is indicated by holes in
the leaves on emergence. The slugs that do the damage emerge from
hibernation at the same time as your hostas and the only things
on their minds is food and reproduction. They are best targetted
In the past we have used Nemaslug
to great effect. Indeed it gave us two seasons of control in one
application. It is a common misconception that control only lasts
for the six week life cycle of the nematode, since during this time
the creature produces and itís progeny take over the task, if there
are enough slugs left for them. We also noticed that the nematode
worked against young snails.
However, the nematode is temperature dependent and only works below ground. Prolonged drought
or cold spells will make it necessary to re-apply.
- Snail damage shows as large lace-effect
gashes in the leaves throughout the season. Snails are the most
damaging of hosta pests aside from vine weevil and you will need
to spot treat regularly throughout the growing season to combat
this pest effectively.
We have devoted a few newsletters to this subject:
Because snails live above ground, they remain unaffected by nematodes, as do many slugs. However, garden slugs, which hibernate below the soil, can be effectively targeted with nematodes. These slugs can usually only damage your hosta shoots within the first few hours of emergence. Beyond that point, the shoots harden off, especially ground grown ones, and become less susceptible. In exceptionally dry years we have witnessed slug damage
during the season but if you deploy snail treatments then this should also affect the slug population.
Don't forget that snails lay down a slime trail as they move. If you have any damage to your hostas then look round for a trail and disturb it if you find one/several. Snails spend valuable energy on laying these trails and will use them to navigate their way back to your plant, which often explains why one hosta can be eaten whilst the one next to it spared. By noticing the early signs of damage you can prevent further grazing. Better still go back at night and wait for the critter to come along, and dispatch it for good.
We use slug pellets,
simply because we cannot sell our plants with holes in the leaves. It
is really important that you follow the manufacturer's guidelines when
using slug pellets and we suggest the following hints to using them:
- Start using your chemical (metaldehyde-based)
or organic (iron phosphate-based)
pellets early on in the year, when the first warm weather hits.
The secret is using the product correctly...
- Use your pellets wisely, don't scatter widely
and wantonly, remember slugs and snails hunt by smell so you risk
attracting more of a problem than you need to solve if you do scatter.
- Keep your pellets dry by putting a a few
of pellets in a jar (on its side) hidden among the foliage. This
keeps the pellets effective for longer and any snails in the vicinity
will snack on the them in preference to your plants.The image above is for illustration only, you do not need a whole teaspoon of pellets, a dozen is about all you need per jar.
- Place the jars in the coolest, darkest, dampest parts of your garden - think like a snail, where would you hide and that is where you place the jars. You shouldn't be able to see the jars as you tend not to be able to see snails during the day. Under dense foliage, at the base of fences and walls, round compost bins and pots are good places.
Using nematodes to combat the slugs, and pellets to combat
the snails, leaves us with a little time to combat vine weevil, which
is altogether a more tricky pest to deal with:
- Vine Weevil damage shows as notches nipped
out along the leaf edges. This is done by the adult weevil, which
feeds at night and does not fly. Itís larvae feast on plant roots
to devastating effect. The larvae are white, about ĹĒ long, with brown
heads.We have found that they are most likely to cause damage in potted
plants, probably because they like the friable soil. To combat this we always
add 20% sharp sand to our potting mix. We also take the precaution
of re-potting plants we buy straight away, in case we have imported
NOTE: Vine weevil need air to breathe, so submerging any plant found to have an infestation in a bucket of water for around 10 minutes will bring them to the surface, ensuring you have found all the potential nibblers.
Nemaslug also produce a nematode solution for Vine Weevil
- find out more here
Hostas can suffer weather-related damage to the leaves, just like
any other plant. Hail, very cold rain and frost can cause very localised
damage to the cells, which then develop what looks like rust spots.
Wind and sun can scorch leaves, bleaching their colour and turning
then papery in consistency. Most of the images we are sent of leaf
damage can be explained as weather-related.
There are some plant viruses that can affect hostas and over recent
years hosta virus X, or HVX, has become more prevalent. The American
Hosta Society is funding research into this particular virus to understand
what causes it, and to determine how best to deal with it. AHS
policy is to destroy any suspect plants and to notify the nursery
who supplied it. The nursery can then screen their stocks of the variety,
if they don't already do so.
out more about the virus and AHS funded research.
Interestingly, it does seem that this virus can lay dormant for quite
a few years before showing any sign of infection, rather like many
other viruses that affect plants, and humans come to that. Indeed,
we have seen some very mature plants, which have obviously been cultivated
for a number of years, show signs of the virus. It is conceivable
that the symptoms could be triggered by climate changes or severe
We rather feel this has become more of a problem over recent decades
due to the proliferation of new introductions that have not been properly
screened before entering the tissue culture process. So far research
suggests that the virus can survive this process, which obviously
increases the potential of occurrance considerably.
Read more about HVX from the links to the AHS website
shown above, and we devoted a newsletter to the subject in November
Ordering from us
Ordering from us is easy, simply call us on 01449
711576, or email
us, with your order.
We have an ever-growing list of highly satisfied customers
who have successfully ordered plants from us and love to tell us of their
joy at receiving such beautiful plants in this way. We could list a whole
bunch of bouquets but feel you should experience our mail order for yourselves.
Why not give it a go?
More information about ordering
To give them the best start plant in a well prepared
humus rich soil that is sufficiently friable to ensure good contact
with the roots. Make sure they do not dry out whilst establishing themselves,
but do not over water. Removing flowering shoots for the first season
will encourage plants to concentrate their energies on producing more
crowns and strong roots.
If planting out when frost may be a problem, protect with mulch. This
is also recommended for the early emerging cultivars, e.g. H. montana 'Aureomarginata'
and plants from the Tardiana group.
The RHS have a leaflet on their website, which links to the
DEFRA directive aiming at preventing the spread of Xylella fastidiosa to the UK. Public awareness needs to be raised about the serious nature of this latest disease, and ways in which we can all act to prevent it entering the UK. Although Hosta have not been identified as a host, or at risk, we still have a role to play in helping the rest of the industry combat the spread of disease.
As a consequence we would like to ask you not to send in the post or bring us directly, any live plant material you would like us to identify/diagnose. It is especially important that you do not bring any plant material to a show.
If the disease was to be found at a show, every nursery exhibitor would be affected and, although destruction of host plants only is specified, caution would suggest that all plant material be destroyed.
Please spread the word and if you have an issue with a plant, which you would like us to help you with - take photos, even if it is just to identify the cultivar. Prevention is always preferable to cure but in this matter, the cure could potentially damage UK horticulture for many years to come.
Vigilance is the key to preventing further spread, so we urge you to follow up the recommendations outlined in the directive and make sure your protect yourselves by knowing the origins of the plants you buy for your own garden.